Kenya has emerged as Africa's leading importer of second-hand clothing, surpassing other nations on the continent. In 2023, the country imported used garments valued at approximately Sh38.5 billion ($298 million), marking a 12.45% increase from the previous year's Sh34.28 billion ($265 million).

This surge underscores the growing demand for affordable apparel among Kenyan consumers. The second-hand clothing sector, locally known as "mitumba," has become a multi-billion-shilling industry, providing employment to an estimated two million individuals across the country.

However, this trend presents challenges for Kenya's domestic textile industry. Despite having 52 textile mills, only 15 are operational, running at just 45% capacity due to factors like low labor productivity and outdated technology. High electricity costs further erode the competitiveness of local manufacturers.

The influx of second-hand clothing also raises environmental concerns. A significant portion of these imports eventually contributes to waste, with markets like Kantamanto in Ghana, one of the world's largest second-hand clothing markets highlighting the environmental impact of discarded garments.

While the mitumba trade supports millions of livelihoods, it poses a dilemma for policymakers aiming to balance economic benefits with the growth of the local textile industry and environmental sustainability.

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